Been running fine for a while with the odd random loss of connection but the frequency seems to be getting worse.
It will work fine then all of a sudden no communication. Then by itself communication again. Cycling the power of the receiver or global chache fixes the issue but not for long. Any ideas what could be causing this? Global cache to the TV works 100% of the time.
Sort of sounds like a Wi-Fi connectivity issue. These kinds of issues are often ignored with simply browser loads, but with real-time network connections can suddenly become noticeable. Other than that, we’d suggest using an iTach as we find the network connectivity of the iTach series to be excellent.
Hmm. I don’t like hearing that. I paid a good chunk of change for the GC-100.
Been thinking about updating the wireless router. Do you think that will help?
The TV works 100% of the time.
The wireless router and the GC-100 would be the two variables. We always recommend the iTach series. Strongly. For any purpose. Even for scenarios where it seems like the GC-100 would be the better option, we suggest using multiple iTach units instead.
It could of course be the Wi-Fi router. It could be as easy as repositioning the router.
I picked up the GC-100 because of the two serial and IR ports. It would cost a pretty penny to buy it all separate in iTach devices. When it works it works great.
I have a Dlink 8 port Gigabit switch that everything in the house is plugged into then the linksys wireless router (wrt-350n/dd-wrt) is plugged into the switch supplying internet and wireless to the house.
The wireless router has needed rebooting here and there. Its old and why I’m thinking of upgrading it. Maybe I’ll give that a go before buying an iTach.
Do you recommend the wired or wireless iTach? I have everything in the same closet so I’d be good with either.
For eliminating interference questions like this, wired is always going to be better than wireless.
That’s what I figured. Wasn’t sure if you guys had greater success with one over the other.
I’ll try a few things and post back with results before buying an iTach.
Love the app though. Keep up the good work. Can’t wait to see what 1.7 will bring.
Small update on this.
Bought an Apple Airport Extreme (AC) and have everything plugged into it. iPad connected through WiFi (of course) GC-100 plugged into ethernet port on Airport (1 foot cable) and still getting very random occasions where I’m unable to send commands and get feedback from the Denon. It happens frequently throughout the day, every day. When this happens there are only a few options to get control back.
-
Manually change input on the Denon, this seems to wake up the connection.
-
Reset the GC-100.
I’m going to pick up an iTach and see if this improves anything. I do have one question about the iTach. Will I need to make a special cable or will a straight stereo 1/8" cable work between the Denon and iTach?
If “Manually change input on the Denon” resolves the issue, that implies that the problem is on the Denon side.
However, resetting the GC-100 as a solution implies the reverse, so it’s not clear. We would note that while our guidance in October 2012 per above was to “strongly” avoid the GC-100, now in 2014 our guidance has recently moved the GC-100 series to full deprecation which means support for it is scheduled for removal in a future release by the end of this year. There are many problems with those old models (this thread being an example). We recommend the iTach Flex models for all purposes these days.
Thank you.
Do you have an answer for the cable situation? Is a standard 1/8" cable going to work between the iTach and the Denon?
Typically that does work and in that specific case you should be good. That’s very much not a generic statement though and any such connection should be verified with Global Caché or the target device as many of them do need adaptation such as the GC-CGX cable.
Thank you.
Thanks. I have ordered an iTach Flex IP. Should have it by Friday. Will let you know how the Denon likes it.
Any one interested in a GC-100-12 
Ok. Got the iTach Flex IP installed and configured.
I can’t get it to work though.
My Denon AVR 3803 has a 3.5mm jack for serial control. I’ve plugged in a 3.5mm stereo cable from the iTach to the Denon.
Here’s what the Denon manual has to say about the serial port.
Tip: RXD
Middle Band: TXD
Base: GND
Speed: 9600
Data Bits: 8
Parity Control: None
Stop Bits: 1
Non procedural
I have matched all the settings and tried crossover enabled and disabled.
Any ideas?
If you want to use serial with the iTach Flex, you would first need an iTach Flex Serial Cable. From there, if you need to adapt it to a non-standard serial connection, you would do that from the end of the Flex Serial Cable.
Thank you.
I made a DB9 to 3.5mm cable for the GC-100 and it worked. Just had to match the pins.
I don’t see how going (iTach 3.5mm to DB9) -> (Denon DB9 - 3.5mm) will be any different than just going straight 3.5 -> 3.5
Just had a back and forth with GC about the serial cable. It has cercuitry in it, so it’s a must use no matter the serial situation. The circuit is what allows pins 2 and 3 to be switched in software. I tried doing it manually and no luck. The device is looking for the circuits.
Cable ordered. Will report back soon.
Ok. Cables are in and everything is configured. Haven’t had one problem since switching to an iTach Flex IP for the Denon and an iTach Flex WiFi for the Panasonic TV. The response is even faster. Home Theatre finished! Now it’s time to focus on an analogue music listening den. You can bet Roomie will be controlling it. Great work guys!